Nail salons don’t tell you this. What you should know before you apply your nail polish

This involves knowing the right techniques, tools, and products to use. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned nail enthusiast, there are key steps to follow to ensure your nail polish looks flawless and lasts longer.

Nail polish is a blend of chemicals designed to deliver color, shine, durability, and smooth application. While many ingredients are considered safe in small doses, others can raise health and environmental concerns—especially with frequent use. Here’s a breakdown of what’s typically inside your nail polish, what to watch out for, and what to choose instead.

1. Film-Forming Agents
These create the smooth, hard coating on your nails after the polish dries.

Example: Nitrocellulose
Purpose: Builds that classic glossy finish and acts as the polish’s structural base.
✅ Generally considered safe, though it’s highly flammable in liquid form.

2. Resins and Plasticizers
These ingredients add flexibility and help the polish stick to your nails without cracking.

Examples: Tosylamide/formaldehyde resin, camphor, triphenyl phosphate (TPHP)
Purpose: Prevents chipping, boosts shine, and ensures polish doesn’t get brittle.
⚠️ Some can be irritants or potential hormone disruptors (e.g., TPHP).

3. Solvents
Solvents keep the polish fluid until application, then evaporate to allow drying.

Examples: Ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, isopropyl alcohol
Purpose: Helps the polish spread evenly and dry quickly.
⚠️ Can be drying or irritating, especially in poorly ventilated spaces.

4. Colorants and Pigments
These provide the vibrant (or subtle) hues and effects you see in polish.

Examples: Iron oxides, titanium dioxide, FD&C dyes, ultramarines
Purpose: Adds color and visual effects like shimmer or matte finishes.
✅ Usually safe, but glitters can be made from microplastics—not eco-friendly.

5. UV Stabilizers
These help protect nail polish from fading or yellowing when exposed to sunlight.

Example: Benzophenone-1
Purpose: Preserves color and finish over time.
⚠️ Potential endocrine disruptor—use in moderation

Many conventional nail polishes include chemicals known for health risks. These are the ones to skip when possible:

Formaldehyde – A known carcinogen used in some hardeners and resins.
Toluene – A solvent linked to headaches, dizziness, and nervous system effects.
Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP) – A plasticizer associated with reproductive harm.
Formaldehyde Resin – A derivative that can trigger allergic reactions.
Camphor – Can cause dizziness or nausea in high concentrations.
TPHP (Triphenyl Phosphate) – A hormone disruptor used as a plasticizer.
Parabens – Preservatives that may interfere with hormone function.
Ethyl Tosylamide & Xylene – Banned in some regions for toxicity concerns.

These harmful ingredients are often referred to as the “Toxic Trio” (formaldehyde, toluene, DBP), though many brands go even further to eliminate up to 10 or more controversial chemicals.

Many clean beauty brands now label their polishes as “X-Free,” where “X” refers to the number of harmful ingredients removed.

5-Free: Free of formaldehyde, toluene, DBP, formaldehyde resin, camphor
7-Free: Adds ethyl tosylamide and xylene to the no-no list
10-Free or 12-Free: Also excludes parabens, fragrances, phthalates, and sometimes animal-derived ingredients

Better Ingredient Alternatives:

Plasticizers: Use acetyl tributyl citrate instead of DBP or TPHP
Solvents: Still use ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, but safer when ventilated
Colorants: Prefer mineral-based pigments and ethically sourced mica
Preservatives: Look for phenoxyethanol instead of parabens
Glitter: Choose biodegradable glitter or shimmer from natural sources

Proper nail preparation is crucial for a smooth and long-lasting polish application. Start by removing any old polish with a gentle, acetone-free remover. Next, trim and file your nails to your desired shape, ensuring to smooth any rough edges. Soak your nails in warm, soapy water to soften the cuticles, then gently push them back with a cuticle pusher. Finish by washing your hands to remove any oils or debris, and apply a base coat to protect your nails and provide a smooth surface for the polish.

Selecting the right nail polish involves considering both aesthetic and practical factors. Decide on a color that complements your skin tone and suits the occasion. For everyday wear, neutral shades are versatile, while bold colors can make a statement for special events. Consider the finish as well; glossy, matte, and glitter finishes each offer a different look. Additionally, consider the formula’s drying time, durability, and whether it is free from harmful chemicals. Reading reviews and testing samples can help you make an informed choice.

To achieve a long-lasting finish, start with a thin layer of base coat to protect your nails and enhance polish adhesion. Apply the nail polish in thin, even strokes, starting from the center of the nail and moving to the sides. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next to prevent smudging. Typically, two coats of color are sufficient for full coverage. Finish with a high-quality top coat to seal the color and add shine. Be sure to cap the free edge of the nail with polish to prevent chipping.

To expedite drying time and prevent smudges, use a quick-dry top coat or nail drying spray. These products are designed to speed up the drying process and protect the polish. Additionally, avoid using your hands for at least 30 minutes after application to allow the polish to set fully. If you’re in a hurry, submerge your nails in a bowl of cold water for a few minutes to help the polish harden quickly. Avoid using heat, as it can cause the polish to bubble or smudge.

To extend the life of your manicure, apply a fresh layer of top coat every few days to maintain shine and prevent chipping. Avoid exposing your nails to harsh chemicals or excessive water, as these can weaken the polish. Wearing gloves while doing household chores can protect your nails from damage. Additionally, moisturize your hands and cuticles regularly to keep them healthy and prevent the polish from lifting.

When it’s time to remove your nail polish, choose a gentle, acetone-free remover to prevent drying out your nails and cuticles. Soak a cotton pad with the remover and press it onto the nail for a few seconds to dissolve the polish, then wipe it away in a single stroke. Avoid scrubbing or using excessive force, as this can damage the nail surface. After removal, wash your hands and apply a nourishing cuticle oil or hand cream to restore moisture.

1. Chemical Exposure: Some nail polishes contain harmful chemicals that can cause allergic reactions or respiratory issues. Opt for non-toxic formulas.

2. Nail Damage: Frequent use of nail polish and removers can weaken and dry out nails, leading to brittleness.

3. Staining: Dark polishes can stain nails if a base coat is not used.

4. Infections: Improper application or removal can lead to infections if the nail bed is damaged.

5. Environmental Impact: Nail polish and removers can contribute to environmental pollution if not disposed of properly.

Applying nail polish is an art that requires attention to detail and care. By understanding the ingredients, preparing your nails properly, and using the right techniques, you can achieve beautiful and long-lasting results. Remember to choose products that are safe for your health and the environment, and take steps to maintain your manicure. With the right knowledge and tools, you can enjoy stunning nails while keeping them healthy and strong.